![]() ![]() Clearance of no more than 1/8" would be appropriate.JB Tools Customer Satisfaction Guarantee: Although JB tools is often not an “authorized” re-seller of all the products it sells and is often not affiliated with the manufacturers or brands of the products it sells, JB Tools stands behind all of the products it sells, because the products JB Tools sells are genuine and authentic. Make sure they pass the cam position sensor without an excessive gap and they are all about the same gap. The fingers can easily be bent, unlike the other version. If you do have the correct pulley, which I think should be the BMM pulley or the one with small fingers. ![]() You might look to see the obvious difference between the sprocket pulleys. One wheel has gaps in a ring in the early model (ASZ) and the later BMM have small fingers. I do not know for sure that the BMM and the ASZ are the same timing pulley. if it's past a reasonable point for cam timing.ģ. When the cam position is very far out of whack, the sensor does the same thing as if it's dead. The cam position sensor is way too advanced or retarded. If you move the timing incrementally from it's current position and still get 0.0, you have a dead cam position sensor.Ģ. The engine cannot find 'the next injector to fire' as startup and runs in a default cam timing position. In that case, the engine will default to '0.0' read. But none of them have to do with the crank timing.ġ. If your cam sensor is reading 0.0, there are 4 ways that can happen. If the crank seal were so far out as to be a problem, your engine would simply not start. VAG does not make the crank any other way. The whole point is, if you get the correct crank timing tool in the correct spot, there is one bolt that will be in line with the mark on the seal's mounting plate and the hole in seal itself. There are dual overhead cams, but I believe they are probably align with the later BMM, BRM, etc. Otherwise, there are two different VAG tools one fits the BRM, BMM etc., the other fits the older engines, like the BEW, BHW. I don't know what you are doing to mis-align the crank, but with the universal crank lock, there are two different settings. The ring installer avoids the potential risk of folding the PTFE seal backwards when pushed into place. If you look very closely, you can see the seal spreading tool makes the seal wider than the journal for an easy fit. how the seal is spread properly and centered to make the job very simple. Btw: we use a bit of high temperature RTV on the bottom of the seal housing, to be sure it doesn't leak from that point.Īnd last, something you will rarely see when installing this seal. This shows how it looks on the crankshaft, ready to push into place. The size of the ALH and the later PD's journal are exactly the same size, so the device works equally well for both applications. #DURAMAX REAR MAIN SEAL INSTALLER TOOL INSTALL#This is the typical ALH rear main seal and it's install seal spreader: We also prefer to use the seal install part that we keep around from the Elring or Reinz ALH rear main seals, as it centers the seal from the hub of the crankshaft and spreads the seal better and more centered than the device that comes with the usual BRM rear main seal. As I show, it is plenty easy enough to line up the dots. It is more likely to get you off kilter than to get it in place properly. Get the first part right and then, if you think you need the yellow pull tab, go ahead, but my eyeballs are more accurate than that yellow piece. NOT ONLY is there no need to keep that reluctor ring in place or use that yellow 'alignment tool', but keeping the ring in place may prevent you from properly installing the teflon seal over the crank journal. At very least, you give the impression that the reluctor ring needs to stay in place when installing the seal. Now, we beg to differ with you CoolAirVw. I hadn't looked to this post for a while, but a customer was interested, so I did.ĬoolAir you revise a post a year later? I thought I agreed with your post before. ![]()
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